Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

2fpower

 
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You are literally into the same job I'm halfway through right now. You've found some better Sanden literature than I managed to find. Thanks!

What I've managed to piece together so far...
1. You need to flush all the old oil form all the lines. I'm halfway done with that now... got slowed down by running out of flush solvent. The walkthrough above doesn't seem to indicate a thorough flushing of all old oil. But everything else I've read says you need to get most of it out.
2. You need to replace your expansion valve with an R134a unit... your current valve is likely R12 specific. And you can't run flush through the expansion valve. The walkthrough above doesn't mention anything about the expansion valve either. But a new Denso expansion valve is only around $25.
3. You'll need a new drier bottle. Covered above.
4. You'll need to drain as much oil as possible from the compressor. Covered above. Sanden 508's take standard PAG 100 as their replacement oil. Sanden has their own name for it above, but I found another document that listed the PAG 100 as suitable for the 508's.

Mine worked like a champ before it was discharged to swap out the front radiator support. So, like you, I'm trying the conversion. If that fails then I'll source a new R134a compressor.
looks like about $200 for a new compressor, so not crazy money..... one question for you as you are mid process.... is the expansion valve inside the car?
 

Honger

Joel, TLCA #21509
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looks like about $200 for a new compressor, so not crazy money..... one question for you as you are mid process.... is the expansion valve inside the car?
Yes... freakin' hidden behind the dashboard. I have the new Denso unit ready to go in. Tonight my boy and I are going to start dismantling the dash.
 

2fpower

 
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Yes... freakin' hidden behind the dashboard. I have the new Denso unit ready to go in. Tonight my boy and I are going to start dismantling the dash.
Well, take some pictures and make some notes. I have done this on 80 series half a dozen times. Always one bolt I miss.

FWIW -- spend 2 minutes and pull the pass seat out.

Do you have a part number on the expansion valve?
 

Honger

Joel, TLCA #21509
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Well, take some pictures and make some notes. I have done this on 80 series half a dozen times. Always one bolt I miss.

FWIW -- spend 2 minutes and pull the pass seat out.

Do you have a part number on the expansion valve?
I'll take pictures as we go tonight. I've been taking photos of the process and will be doing a write-up. I'll try to do some progress reporting tonight or this weekend.

For the valve, how about a link to Amazon?
 

2fpower

 
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Drove the car a bunch today. Radio has to go. Would like to go double din.

Found this part number from @c2dfj45 other thread. 55413-90K00 is that going to work for mine?
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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Thank you Dan

I took one picture of the car today..... Saw at least a half dozen people taking their own picture of it :D:D:D:D:D

View attachment 2071073
I wonder what those people call you if they don’t know your name? You definitely must have one of the more unique collections in the area. I know in my neighborhood there is “old rusty Mustang collector”, “old Volvo guy” and “fast n furious kid”. Don’t know their real names.
 

cruiserdan

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Footnote:

I also see folding wiper arms so I bet the door frames are removable. Way cool truck.

If that was mine I would put an LS in it, lift it about 3 inches, put factory flares on it, move the front axle forward an inch and put 305/70/16 Mikey Thompson Baja MTZP3s with OEM 80 Series 16x8 steel wheels with 1.5 inch Spidertrax spacers.

Then I would drive the wheels off of it.:grinpimp:
 

Honger

Joel, TLCA #21509
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Footnote:

I also see folding wiper arms so I bet the door frames are removable. Way cool truck.

If that was mine I would put an LS in it, lift it about 3 inches, put factory flares on it, move the front axle forward an inch and put 305/70/16 Mikey Thompson Baja MTZP3s with OEM 80 Series 16x8 steel wheels with 1.5 inch Spidertrax spacers.

Then I would drive the wheels off of it.:grinpimp:
Shoot Dan, sounds like you need to buy the twin that’s still available for sale... you got it all planned out!
 

cruiserdan

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There is a slight hitch.

I already have a JDM BJ74 5 speed manual with factory cable lockers and a factory PTO winch. It is on 3 inches of lift with 80 Series steels, spacers and 285/75/16 rubber.

I'd have to get all the money out of that one to proceed.

In addition the body is perfect, rust free and has a show-quality paint job.

Would you like to finance my next project? :grinpimp:
 

ceylonfj40nut

Hate Design Obsolescence
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Yes... freakin' hidden behind the dashboard. I have the new Denso unit ready to go in. Tonight my boy and I are going to start dismantling the dash.

I hope this gives you inspiration. It sucked to do this on my wife’s gx470. All others are simple(r). Just be methodical with pics of each step.

678CC2E4-2EA4-4FD7-9C38-9A7CEBCBD7B1.jpeg
 

FJBen

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I don’t understand why they didn’t make all cruisers with a folding windshield have those bumpers/blocks. I understand the doors were probably more expensive to make all of them 1/2 doors...but I really wish they did.
 

Honger

Joel, TLCA #21509
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There is a slight hitch.

I already have a JDM BJ74 5 speed manual with factory cable lockers and a factory PTO winch. It is on 3 inches of lift with 80 Series steels, spacers and 285/75/16 rubber.

I'd have to get all the money out of that one to proceed.

In addition the body is perfect, rust free and has a show-quality paint job.

Would you like to finance my next project? :grinpimp:
Actually, I'd LOVE to finance your next project... but gotta keeping funding my own.

Your's is a flippin' nice truck... as is @2fpower's.

These SWB 70-series give me bad thoughts...
 
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