Know if it's solid sleeve or crush sleeve?My 61 has the newer style.
I have the full kit to do it, but just haven't gotten around to it. It's on the list for the next block of time off.
Gotta give the old bitch some love before it gets jealous of the green thing and pitches a fit. The trouble with two cruisers. 40 year old lumps of iron throwing girlish tantrums.
With Lachlan's driveshafts, I seem to remember samurai's using spacers a lot. It's definitely not the best solution, it adds a lever to your pinion basically. Certainly won't increase it's life expectancy.
You can get an extra inch cheaply by using half of a minitruck slip yoke. If you have the round flanges it's easy to redrill for the different bolt pattern.
Ya every couple years I wear out a ujointYou don’t have a locker? What ratio are you running in your diffs you might be able to find one 3.70 for around 100$ 4.11 more like 200$ Or more. If it came out of a front end it probably wouldn’t need a rebuild yet. Much cheeper and easier.
You probably needed the spacer due to the large lift you have. I would try to get rid of the spacer even if it means retubing the drive shaft.
Another thing with large lift springs or spring over lifts is the pinion flange might not parallel the tcase flange anymore. That would also cause vibration, premature rear u joint and pinion bearing failure. (Didn’t you just have to redo your rear u joint?) If that is the problem it can be fixed with some 20$ castor correction wedges. I happen to have some 4 degree ones I’m not using.
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Ryan's suggestion of a snout swap is a good idea. I did it.
A couple V blocks, dial gauge and a mig welder will be useful. I gave all my spare bits to Ryan so I'm sure he can help you out.
I'd pop by for the trip down memory lane and offer useless ridicule. (If I don't blow the date this time)